Mastering Long Exposure Photography

What is Long Exposure?

Have you ever seen those breathtaking photos of waterfalls where the water looks silky smooth, like flowing white ribbons? Or a serene lake that you know is usually choppy, yet appears perfectly calm and glass-like? That’s the magic of long exposure photography. It involves adjusting your camera settings so the shutter stays open long enough to create motion blur.

Waterfalls, rivers, night skies, and light trails are all commonly captured using long exposure techniques. You can also create motion blur in seascapes (check out my other blog on that!). The key difference is that for waterfalls, your tripod must remain completely still—no movement at all.

What Gear Do You Need for Mastering Long Exposure Photography

TripodTo avoid camera shake, a sturdy tripod is essential. My best advice: don’t go for a light or cheap one, especially if you’ll be setting it up in or near water.

ND Filters (Neutral Density Filters)These reduce the amount of light entering your lens. The density you need depends on the lighting conditions:

• Bright sunny day, no clouds, open area → ND8 or stronger

• Under a tree canopy, low light, or before sunrise → ND4 to ND8 (or none at all)

  
  

An ND filter is basically a dark lens cover. Some are so dark you can’t see through them unless you hold them up to the light. Without an ND filter on a sunny day, a 2-second exposure will result in an overexposed white image. With an ND filter, that same exposure will produce a properly lit photo with beautiful motion blur.

Remote ShutterA remote shutter is a must. Even the slightest touch on your camera can cause blur during a long exposure. You might think you’re steady, but trust me—without a remote or tripod, the shake will show.I prefer wireless remotes over cable ones because cables can still bump the tripod.

Camera Settings

• Shutter Speed: Start with 1–2 seconds for waterfalls and adjust as needed. There’s no strict rule—it depends on the scene and lighting.

• Aperture: f/8–f/16 for sharpness and depth of field.

• ISO: Keep it as low as possible (ISO 100–200). Higher ISO adds light but also grain.

• Mode: If you’re still learning manual mode, use Shutter Priority—set your shutter speed (1–2 seconds) and let the camera handle the rest. If you’re confident, go full Manual.

Pro Tip

When I first started, I felt overwhelmed. My trick was to shoot in Auto Aperture Priority and Shutter Priority check the settings, then switch to Manual and tweak them. Honestly, I still sometimes do this today if I’m stuck or can’t nail the settings. Photography is all about trial and error—there’s no hard-and-fast rule.

Gallery

Below are some of my long exposure shots with camera settings and locations included.

Mclean Falls NZ

That Wanaka Tree NZ

Sydney Harbour Bridge

Mastering Long Exposure Photography

Mclean Falls NZ - F/11 1/3 Sec ISO 100

That Wanaka Tree F/8 30 Sec ISO 100 - early morning before sunrise ND10 Filter

Sydney Harbour - F/11 25 Sec ISO 100 - Night Photo With ND10 Filter

Final Thoughts

Give it a go! If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. Remember, there’s no single “right” way to capture a photo. That’s what makes photography so special. Two photographers can shoot the same scene and produce completely different results. Photography is personal—what you love, someone else might not, and vice versa.